How to's

It's good practice to top up the fresh water tank on arrival at a campsite but many sites now have water taps dotted around nearby, some even have a tap per pitch. Topping up as you stay on site can be done by either moving the van, using one or two 10 ltr watering cans, having an Aqua roll container and pumping the water into the tank or by using a suitable length of hosepipe. Moving the van is hassle, an Aqua means dragging it to the nearest tap, filling it, rolling it back to the van then using a suitable 12v emersion pump to transfer the water to the tank. We use to do both methods, too much hassle and you also have to stow the Aqua tank somewhere. My preferred option to top up is using the watering cans, provided the distance to tap is not too far. OK, you might need to make a few trips back and forth but by having two 10ltr watering cans you balance the load and make less trips. The other advantage is that service areas are always a good place to stop and chat and meet new people, you can also get rid of your rubbish on the way, plus it can be good exercise!! The alternative method is to use a hosepipe, this is great if within range of the water supply, is fairly quick and easy and can also lead to interesting conversations as the hose splits, fittings come apart or you loose control of the end and it sprays everyone on the site!! There are many debates as to what type of hose is best. Garden hoses are heavy, not easy to stow away in a small space. Flat hose pipe on stowage reels are better, they take up less space but can be difficult to roll up after use. Personally we carry two or three differing lengths of a newish product called X Hose. Can also be named "Stretch hose" or "Expanding hose". Basically it is a rubber hose inside a canvas type outer cover. As water pressure builds up inside the hose the whole thing expands about three times it's original length. For example, 50 ft of hose will more or less reach a tap that is 150 ft away!! Allowing for a small drop in length as you fill the van due to the loss of full pressure they are brilliant. They are so lightweight, almost self emptying when you close the supply tap and take up much less room than any other type of hose. By having three differing lengths you use only the length needed or you join all three together and can reach almost any tap on the site! I often offer a free water filling service to those vans in range whilst I have mine out. Whatever hose you use make sure you have plenty of hose connectors, differing tap size connectors etc etc. Another tip, don't buy tap and hose connectors in motorhome / caravan dealers, B&Q and other outlets are much much cheaper for the same things.

There are some motorhomers who state that water hoses MUST be "Food Safe" as plasticides can leach out of non FS hoses. Load of twaddle, It might happen if you left the hose connected to the water supply, charged with water for hours or days in hot sunshine and then used, but most uses of hoses are for a few minutes, the water passing through the hose in seconds. If normal hoses were that dangerous they would have banned them years ago. AND guess what...Food Grade hoses cost much more!!

GAS

Not sure what gas system you have? Some vans have onboard fitted tanks that can be filled up at garages but most have stowage for a couple of gas canisters. You will have a regulator, it needs regular checking and I think needs changing every 5 years. The rubber gas pipework also needs checking and changing regularly. 

Remember gas fittings are opposite to plumbing fittings so you will need to turn the connecting fitting ANTICLOCKWISE to tighten and CLOCKWISE to release. Make sure you have a gas detector in the van just in case something goes wrong.

NEVER travel any distance with the gas turned on, always shut the bottle or tank valve. (Part of your moving off check list).

If using the gas for the first time for awhile it is sometimes worth "bleeding" the system first. Easiest way is to light up one of the cooker rings for a few seconds. This is particularly useful when lighting the gas fridge or gas heater. Don't forget to turn on the gas supply at the bottle!!

Three way fridge. Gas, 240v mains and 12v AC

Most vans have this type of fridge. Best use is mains power if you have it connected. Alternative is gas, read the fridge working instructions. In most cases you turn the gas temperature valve to "ignite", switch on the igniter switch and it will light up when the gas has ignited, then adjust the temperature valve to suit your needs. The RED 12v switch works off the engine alternator so will only work when the engine is running. It will not chill the fridge but rather keep keeps it at the current temperature whilst you are driving about. Therefore it is important that you cool it first before moving off. Fridges do not like to work at all if parked at an incline, so if like us it is parked on a sloping drive  at home you may need to level it out overnight before departing or put some frozen freezer packs in it for your first journey.

Packing the van

Be aware of your axle weight limits and in particular your payload limit. It is all to easy to overload the van. Having a towbar on the back is great for protection from rear end shunts, but it can also be tempting to add a tow bar fitted scooter rack ( with scooter!) Plus a cycle carrier and all on top of what's a long overhang. This can really affect the balance of the van. Know where your water tanks are, travel with limited fresh water if you can.

Tables, leisure chairs, BBQ's, TV's, bedding, clothes, food, bottles of wine and beer, etc, etc, etc, etc all add up and that's on top of all the fixtures and fittings that have been built onto that unsuspecting vehicle chassis!! Where possible, load heavy items low down and near the centre or back axle of the van. We keep our outside chairs / tables in the midsection loo when travelling, you might have a large "garage" or storage area under the fixed bed,, if you have one.

That's enough for now, I know it all sounds a lot but after awhile it will all fall into place, you will wonder what you were worrying about!!!!

The main thing is that you will enjoy your adventures.

Regards. Pete.

See Part 2 >>>>

 

Hi Mike. 

Good to hear the info is useful. Actually It's good for me to put some of this knowledge down on paper, makes me use the brain and also will also be good for other newbies in the future.

One word of warning Mike. Make sure they do a proper damp check on her, if necessary suggest you might get an independent damp check done by others as well as theirs. The reason why I mention it now is because last year at this time I found a small amount of damp on Elle. Not surprised, after all she was 15 then. As I travelled around looking for a decent repair workshop I found nearly all the work being done by most of them was damp related. Quite a few British vans, some foreign, including Rapido. The worrying thing was they were nearly all under 6 years old!! One that was having a complete overcab rebuild was less than 2 years old. Some of the engineers were saying that because motorhomes were getting more and more popular they were being rushed through the various factories without getting the quality checks and builder skills that older vans like Elle use to get. Big dealers like Haybridge were struggling to find enough workshop facilities to cope with the repair demand. 

Sorry to put a bit of a downer on it, I was shocked by what I found and would hate to find out months down the line that you had an expensive problem to deal with. Damp in a van can be very difficult to see and locate without an experienced eye and good damp detection equipment. I did not know about mine until it was spotted on a habitation check, luckily it was found quickly and it was relatively inexpensive to repair..(1000) !

Part two coming up!

OK, van is filled up with fuel, and you are raring to be off on your new adventures.

What you take is what you want and what you may need. Just be conscious of your payload and where on board you load it.

ESSENTIALS

In my view these are essentials, regardless of where you are going and time away.

Wellie Boots. Who knows when it will pour down, when river levels might rise, what muddy pathways you might walk down or even what you might need if you are able to get the van washed.

Hi Viz tabards or jackets. Needed by law in Europe, very advisable over here in case of breakdown / accident or if you are needed to help others in an emergency. Breakdown triangle, wheel levelling ramps and chocks, spare vehicle bulbs, spare fuses, small selection of tools to include gas bottle spanner, flat and phillips screwdrivers, adjustable spanner, hammer, fret saw and anything else you feel is necessary. If you have a separate "drive away" awning or a storm strap for your van awning you will need tent pegs etc and a mallet. I also carry a couple of 5 ton lightweight tow ropes just in case!

Campsites and what types to use

Both the Caravan Club, and the Caravan and Camping Clubs have good quality sites. They don't come cheap, even if you are a member but where they allow non members in then members do get a cheaper nightly deal. Depending on time of year (not all are open all year) and the popularity of location, you may be able to just turn up and get a pitch but with more and more caravans and motorhomes on the road I find that if you are planing a journey then it is worth phoning and booking in advance. Both clubs have apps for mobiles or tablets that make it easy to do. They normally have fantastic toilet blocks, showers, washing machines, dog walks and kids play areas etc. You may be asked for preferred type of pitch (grass, hardstanding, super pitch (with drainage and fresh water) Don't forget to ask for electric hookup if you want it, pitches without electric are normally cheaper). You may be asked for your van registration and / or the van length.

Some sites will allow you to find a pitch you like, pitch up then let them know which one you are on. Other sites work to the rules. You will be guided to your pitch, told to reverse so that your rear right wheel is almost touching the marker peg! Some may allow you to choose whether you want to drive on, reverse on or even go across the pitch. Parking on grass pitches is OK ( If permitted) provided they are firm and not boggy! But driving on the sacred grass when trying to access your hard standing is a criminal offence deserving imprisonment for life!!  

Both clubs also authorise smaller 5 van campsites in farms, orchards, pubs etc. They are called Certified Locations by the CC and Certified Sites by the C&CC. You will find them all over the place, use the clubs guides or websites to locate them. Quite often they are off the beaten track and in the back of beyond! We love them, pick ones that suit your abilities and what you want to do in the area. Near a bus route or good foot / cycle path etc. They can be very basic, just somewhere to empty the loo and a supply point for fresh water. Some are more sophisticated with Electric hookup, and perhaps a loo and shower. They are normally cheaper than bigger sites, depends on what they have to offer and because the van numbers are restricted they are normally nice and quiet and peacefull.

Alternatively you can chose to go to a private campsite, normally bigger, brasher, can be more expensive and offer far more facilities including bars, restaurants, swimming pools, kids play areas and equipment etc etc.

Wild camping is where you try to stop overnight without using campsites. In Scotland you are legally allowed to park off road provided you do not block any roads or access, leave the place clean and tidy and don't dump your black waste. There are loads of lovely wild camping places, particularly in the Highlands and around the coastal roads. They do not like large groups of campers hogging one spot and it's normally OK to stay a maximum of one or two nights. Rest of UK is a totally different ball game. Height or width restrictors everywhere. Car parks with no overnight camping notices. You really have to look for somewhere and then decide if you feel safe. Unfortunately our bearded, unwashed travelling fraternity are to blame for that. In this country I believe it's best, and safer to use proper sites.

In Europe there is a totally different approach. They actively welcome motorhomes, most towns and many villages even provide special places to park up for a day or two. They are called Aires, ( in Germany it's Stellplatz) and again be basic with only somewhere to park overnight, some have water and waste facilities, some even showers and toilets. They are either free or very cheap or you may just put a coin in a machine for what you use. The downside is that they can get very busy and you can end up parked so close to each other. We use them occasionally but normally prefers proper campsites, and there are thousands of them, particularly for the added sense of security.

Whatever type of pitch, campsite, field or layby you are in you need to check out the following when pitching up.

First, and most important, is it reasonably level, and can I get off it if it pours down with rain! Motorhomes do not necessarily have cross country tyres so even light boggy areas may cause a problem. Beware of grass pitches where the only way out is uphill over the grass. Select your pitch carefully, I always look to see where the sun may shine if it decides to smile on us. We like the sun on the awning side of the van if at all possible.

Levelling Up  Added info 21 Aug 16

Firstly, only use levelling ramps if you have to. Secondly, try to park up so you use levels on your driving side, they are easier to see particularly through your open door. 
If you use a fixed point on the ground that you can align the bottom of the door with you can better judge the distance you move the van, in otherwords if you know you need to move 6 inches up the ramp then find a point 6 inches along the ground when looking at the bottom of the open door. Remember if you place the same sized ramp at the same distance on all other required wheels as you did the front wheel that you can see then whatever you do at the front will be mirrored on the rest. Finally, remember you can place the ramp behind the front wheel and reverse if that makes it easier to see. Lastly, provided you have good clutch control then if you are not sure as you go up the ramp then stop, apply handbreak and get out to check.
Oh, and always go up ramps with straight wheels!

Another little trick which might help. If you have a spare ramp (guide ramp) that is more or less the same size as as the one (or two) that you are trying to use on the opposite side, then place it ALONGSIDE your front wheel that you can see, lined up same as the others, then as you start to ride up the unseen ramp(s) by looking at this guide ramp you can get a good idea of your progress, hope that makes sence!

 

In my opinion the van does not need to be as level as a pool table, a little tolerance can be allowed. Look at the ground, does it have any undulations that you can use to help level up. Even gravel prepared hard standings are not necessarily level front to back or side to side ( or both!). If you have a bubble level indicator or spirit level then great, if not you can get spirit level apps for your smart phone or you can place some water in a glass or you can run some into the sink and they will give you an indication if you are reasonably level or not. I have developed a good eye for the ground and sometimes it's just a case of opening the toilet door and see if it swings one way or other. Using wheel ramps will help where you do need to make adjustments.

    There are the big Melenco Wheel Levellers that will give you the most adjustment but they are big and storage may be a problem. Personally I have one large and three normal sized yellow Fiamma levelers and a combination of these normally is sufficient. Using a leveller is a bit of an art that needs practice. 

Depending on how you need to level up you might be riding up two equally at the front, or perhaps at the back, or you might need them both under both wheels on one side, intact you might need them under both at the front AND one at the back!! You have a choice of either placing them in front of your selected wheels and driving up to get the correct height. Sometimes it's easier to place front ones to the rear of the front wheels and reversing up (You can watch your drivers side wheel through an open door much easier this way!) Remember to drive gently, no sudden movements or they may disappear across the gravel or grass or you may shoot over the top!!! (That could result in damage to the underside of the van). Use Liz to help you out. When you pace them out, either in front or behind your chosen wheels remember you might need to place them equally distant from the tyres if both wheels need to rise the same amount or one slightly nearer than the other if there is a difference in height levels required. Once you are on your levelers as required then apply hand brake AND put it in gear and if you have wheel chocks then use them. You both will be moving about in the van and you can get a bit of wheel movement.